- Part 1 – My favorite place on Earth
- Part 2
- The first run – The south side of the Weminuche-
- Second run – Along the Animas
- Part 3 – Molas Pass
- Final – side trip and goodbye
Vallecito
I couldn’t make my mind up. Back and forth and back and forth I went for the entire drive.
It wasn’t the first time I was in this state of indecision – for the past couple days, and even last summer, I had been trying to decide:
What was the best trail to take north from the stretch between Pagosa and Baker’s Field to get me the best sights up in the Weminuche Wilderness?
There were 4 possible trails starting from two different locations. None of them looked particularly promising for a single day run, but I knew one of them could get me some killer views.
The indecision was killing me.
It’s times like these that I have to step back and just laugh at myself. And that’s exactly what I did.
Stressing out over which incredible trail would be “more extraordinary” – aren’t we humans so interesting sometimes?
I realized what I was doing, understanding that any trail would be incredible, and ended up at Vallecito Reservoir. Once there, I knew the answer would be to take the trail that heads directly north. It had the highest chance of getting me to the north end of Chicago Basin, and I’d been studying out the map for years dreaming of the day I’d be able to make the full trek up this trail, over a pass into the basin, climb those 4 14ers, and descend back west to end up north of Durango at Purgatory Resort.
I wouldn’t be able to make the full journey on this trip, but I could at least go scope it out.
I arrived, quickly took in the incredible views of Vallecito Reservoir from my car window, found the trailhead, and headed north.
In the first five minutes, I was partially annoyed. The trail meanders up alongside the campground and having to run by humans while fighting serious fatigue from 4 hours of sleep followed by a 4-hour drive didn’t sit well with me.
No matter. Everything changed quickly, as things do on trail runs. Minutes later, I was away from the humans in the campgrounds taking a trail heading upward. And the next few miles are nothing shy of completely breathtaking.
This is what I came here for – the granite.
Steep, tall, sheer walls of dark granite. Walls that formed in clusters all around me – some of them forming large boulders, others creating large walls – perfect for a pitch or two or three of climbing.
This impressive rock is what had stole my heart many years ago. It’s why I kept coming back. Something about it calling me into this magnificent mountain range year after year.
At this point, I couldn’t see any of the peaks – I was deep in a canyon cut by a rushing river, thick with forest.
And that was perfect. There would be time for peaks another day. Today I would enjoy the run through the forest along a rushing river of some of the last of the snow melt.
And maybe, if luck was with me, I’d get a killer view or two of one of the giants I knew towered thousands of feet above me
Now, before we go further, understand that I’m not here writing this post just to spoil the fun for you. There will be no step-by-step along the trail. Instead, you’ll get the brief overview with the highlights (judged by my own peak-obsessed brain).
The short of it is that the miles flew by – the cliff next to me slowly subsiding as the trail met the height of the river.
The first bridge crossing brought me to stare right down on it.
From here, the trail stays mostly level with the river as I ran through miles of forest, soft dirt beneath my feet and the occasional fallen tree to navigate.
Finally, I saw them.
There, right in front of me, a familiar couple peaks.
I say familiar because I had been in this region once before. The trail next to me – the one that leads upwards – to Emerald Lake – I had done as a backpack two years ago.
On that trip, I had been in a similar situtation – eager to catch glimpses of the towering giants – but too early in the summer to be able to get up to them. So, that trip, I had watched from afar, with the best views taken across Emerald Lake
Here, this day, the same peaks were coming into view. And I was elated.
–
I’m not exactly sure why something like this sets my heart afire the way it does. What exactly is so special about piecing together a map of peaks in my own mind?
As a scientist, I couldn’t tell you. There’s no innate quality to it, and I’m not sure it’s something shared by many others.
But piecing together a map of different areas – especially ones in the wilderness involving peaks – for whatever reason, it’s the kind of thing that lights me up as much as anything else could.
–
Anyway, where were we.
Ah, yes, the peaks!
Unfortunately, this piece of the tale ends soon after, as what I had seen on other trip reports came true before my very eyes: the third bridge had, indeed, been wiped out. All that remained was a piece of wood and metal among an avalanche field.
This created an important question to be addressed:
- Do I try to cross the river?
- Do I turn back
I’ve done sketchy river crossings before. They’re not great, but often times it’s possible to get across safely.
However in this case, I was alone out in the wilderness and the water level seemed quite high with the snow melt. That, combined with the fact that I couldn’t even see a trail on the other side led me to turn around.
There would be no reaching the turn off to Chicago Basin today. This would be as close to the peaks as I would get.
But no matter. I still had 7 beautiful miles of a return trip back to the car.
Plus, I had more days on this trip.
And, of course, this was just the beginning of only one summer.
–
Day 2: Purgatory Trail towards Chicago Basin
I’ve had a dream for many years now, and unfortunately just haven’t been able to make it happen.
The dream is to camp in Chicago Basin and to climb the four 14ers that arise from there.
The problem is that these are the most remote 14ers in Colorado. It’s a solid day’s hike just to the Needleton train stop, and another good part of a day up into the basin. At that point, it may take a few days to sumit all 4 peaks (largely dependent on weather). Then, of course, you must make the trek back.
It’s entirely doable, but logistically I need several days for the trip, along with a buddy who is willing and able to make the trek with me.
Obviously I wouldn’t be making the trek on this trip. But maybe I could go scope it out, just as I had the trail from the south the day before.
This led me to the parking lot across from Purgatory Resort, a point from which I could enter the same area from the west. I was a bit tired from the day before, but for the most part I was filled with energy as my heart soared. I’d been eager to check out this trail for so long.
As with every other trail in the area, I was immediately in love.
The trail drops steeply, providing the most spectacular views of the Needles. It’s a view I had already fallen in love with, and one I was eager to check out any time I passed by on the highway.
But here, now, it was right in front of me, and I could spend as much time as I wanted just taking the view in. I enjoyed it for a while, both in and on my way back.
But I didn’t want to stick around too long. I had a long adventure to go experience.
The trail follows a creek that cuts yet another deep canyon. Watching my steps carefully, I ran the miles along its length. Soaking in the roar of the creek. Taking in the sheer canyon walls. Bathing in the sunlight and forest.
And, greatest of all, views of Engineer in the distance.
Finally, I found it – another point I’d been eager for.
The Animas River, cutting an even larger canyon in front of me.
A short descent (one that I knew would feel much longer baking in the heat on the way back up) took me down to it. And for another moment, I was filled with pure joy.
The Animas always lights me up. Whether it’s a float down with dear friends, sticking my feet in after a hard day on the trails, or simply enjoying a meal on its banks, the Animas has been there, a joyful sight, my entire life.
Here, I was elated to see another point of this beautiful river.
And, as the temperatures were heating up, I couldn’t help but let my mind wander down the possibility of jumping in and letting her take me all the way back to town.
From here, the journey continued for many miles as I ran through thick forest up this new canyon towards Chicago Basin. The trail becoming thick – often overrun – by foliage that cut at my legs.
The trees around me creating comforting peace.
The Animas, always right there roaring next to me.
And, of course, the peaks towering above me. It was difficult to catch glimpses, but you can bet that each time I did, I was once again elated.
Finally, after many more miles than was comfortable, I found it. The fork.
Left to loop back around, up (many many miles) to Molas Pass.
Straight ahead to the center of my attention: Chicago Basin.
Unfortantely, This was also the 10 mile mark, and it was nearing the high 80s. And I was alone with limited food.
This meant there was only one wise path forward:
- Cool off in creek and enjoy some fresh (filtered) creek water
- Head up this trail just a bit further
- Turn back around
- Come back to this trail, go all the way up to the basin, and summit those 14ers on another trip
I enjoyed cooling off in the creek. I was sad to turn around.
But I was eager to enjoy a few of the sites on the way back and to get back to the car for a real meal.
Off I went.
–
Back at the car, between bites of one incredible almond butter sandwich, I had an important decision to make. I had 35 miles at my back. I had another day or two for this trip.
And I needed somewhere to sleep.
So, what next?
These two days had been spectacular as I ran through the forest along these rivers.
But I knew where I was being guided next.
Further North. To my favorite place on Earth.
Molas pass, with the many trails accessible from that point.
I’d head there, and see where my feet took me this time.
